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Rasta, Roots, Rock and Reggae
Negril Makes for Jamaica's Secret Paradise

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By Kathleen Murray

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You know how the song goes: "...Key Largo, Montego, baby why don't we go...." But what the Beach Boys neglected to promote was the other sun haven of Jamaica -- Negril. Montego Bay is considered a stereotypical travel spot: loud bars replete with vacationers running drunk and aimless in loud Hawaiian prints. On the other side of the island, the atmosphere is a little more reserved and relaxed. In Negril the pace may slow down, yet the opportunity for excitement is overwhelming.

Negril was established in the '60s by American "flower children" in search of a secret utopia. Somewhere where they could escape the political and social problems of the United States to chill and smoke marijuana. Three decades later, Americans are still seeking refuge in this hidden paradise. Amidst the trees -- Negril law requires no building can be constructed higher than the tallest palm tree -- lies a distinct culture of reggae, drugs, jerk chicken and Rastifaris.

The blazing Jamaica sun reflects off the crystal blue water. Massive formations of rock surround the enclave, damming off the sea. A combined odor of coconut suntan oil and cold Jamaican Red Stripe beer fills the air of the Pickled Parrot.

One of Negril's finest cliff jumping spots, the Pickled Parrot brings out the diverse personalities of each tanner. Intent on securing the perfect tan, several vacationers relax in their lounge chairs overlooking a breathtaking horizon, immune to the carcinogenic sun beating down on their bodies. Many others crave rejuvenation: the Caribbean sea is calling. The less daring of the group climb down a rusted, unsteady ladder to frolic in the wonder of the sea. You can also rent a banana boat here for extra water pleasure. The encircling 30 and 40 foot cliffs are too enticing to be ignored by the adventuresome, but be sure to take along someone who is familiar with the cliffs (there are rastafarians hanging out who will be more than happy to jump with you).

Promising awe-inspiring sunsets and prime cliff jumping, Rick's Cafe is within walking distance of the Pickled Parrot -- actually, the term walking distance is debated by the lazy and tired. Although not as infamous as Rick's Cafe, the Pickled Parrot offers the same amenities without the touristy crowds and pricey menu.

The spirit of Bob Marley -- his name alone symbolizes Jamaica -- lives on through Negril natives. All radio stations are devoted to preserving his memory and the freedom his music praised. Although the prophet of music is dead, wonderful and talented reggae bands are plentiful in Negril. An escorted walk along the beach (shady people erupt at night) ensures an encounter with one of the dozens of places to listen to good music and drink Appleton rum (Jamaica's national liquor). Check out Runaway's, De Buss and Sam Sara where the Marleys and Yellowman are known to make appearances during the spring season.

Are you more interested in doing the Macarena? Risky Business is geared toward an American college crowd looking for that "spring break" experience (i.e. loud top 40 music, sloppy drunks and guys in guinea-tees). Several discos located in Port Antonio offer an escape from reggae as well. For a $20 admission fee at The Underground, you can drink all you want and dance to "Come on Eileen" all night long.

Visions of Jamaica often equate with endless fields of mushrooms and marijuana stalks on every corner. Narcotics are illegal on the island, but tolerated. Be careful, being thrown in Jamaican prison is not an enjoyable end to your travels. However, for some psychedelic pleasure tell your cabbie to stop off at Ma Brown's or Ted's One Stop Shop. The mushroom tea comes in three strengths: mild, strong and extra strength. Be forewarned that extra strength really means extra strength. Most of the clientele are locals, but Ma Brown loves her American spring breakers. The menu is terse -- Ganja cake or mushroom tea -- but both items are highly recommended. The prices are a bit steep, but the atmosphere is copacetic and satisfaction is guaranteed.

If your funds haven't been completely swept up by Ma Brown, a day trip to Ocho Rios is a must. Quite a distance away, but well worth the bumpy bus trip, are the famous waterfalls of Jamaica. Climbing to the top around these immense and breathtaking waterfalls is an adventure to remember.