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http://www.rocklands.com

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It's no longer necessary to drive to Georgia for a barbecue menu that offers a long list of fresh vegetables as side dishes. Glover Park or Arlington will do.

That's where you'll find Rocklands, the small, in-town one with just a few seats and mostly carryout, or the barnlike spinoff in an ex-gas station near Ballston. I like the smaller place, with its bowls of peanuts in the shell to entertain you while you wait and its walls of hot sauces. But each has its funky charm, and both have top-notch ribs, smoked over real wood and just chewy enough, seasoned rather than just peppered.

The chopped pork sandwich is outstanding meat, with juicy and crunchy bits of meat piled high on a bun – though I prefer my sauce less tomatoey. The grilled leg of lamb is elegant, the grilled fish fillet – usually salmon – even more so. Only the chicken could use more attention to keeping it juicy. Among the side dishes, the macaroni and cheese is so zingy that it should star as a main course. There are fine corn pudding and mashed potatoes, baked beans and cooked greens, a mild and fresh corn salad and tart, thick, fresh apple compote. The potato salad has an unfortunate tendency to be undercooked, and some of the salads yearn for salt. In all, though, few places anywhere make available such satisfying, down-home, from-scratch American cooking at fast-food prices.

– Phyllis C. Richman

There is another Rocklands at 4000 Fairfax Dr., Arlington, Va., 703/528-9663.

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